PCB800099 – RTD2660/RTD2662 based LCD Controller Review

“PCB800099”, also known as VS-TY2662-V1 is an LCD controller PCB which has entered the market relatively recently. As per usual I have no idea who designed either the board or who wrote its software, but I do know it is based on the Realtek RTD2662 controller, although some may be labelled RTD2660 (which in theory means no HDMI), but if your HDMI input works, it’s an RTD2662. This is just sloppy chip labelling. The RTD266x family represents Realtek’s “TV” lineup, and using this, you notice it.

PCB800099 LCD Controller
PCB800099 LCD Controller

With my favourite variety (the RM5451 and variants) of D.I.Y. LCD controllers getting long in the tooth, and this also being a Realtek looks like a promising replacement, but having ordered one, I’m not quite sure it is.

Here’s the things I didn’t like about it compared to R.RM5451:

  • It feels more like a TV, less like a Monitor. The RM5451’s firmware mostly manages to stay out of your way, whereas with PCB800099, it’s firmware is in your face. You’ll get a no input “Blue screen”, comprehensive and lengthy OSD popups warning of “No Signal” and whatever input it’s set to.
  • Because it’s a TV, it assumes that more than one input is in use at a time, and doesn’t auto detect, You’ve got to select the desired input. This is annoying when you’ve got it as a carry around rig using only one input at a time. At least once you a select an input, it remembers it even if you power it off. Thank god.
  • For the more advanced hacker (i.e. one who’s bought the programmer kit), it’s not as great. Unlike RM5451 which comes with a reliable USB programmer, with hundreds of images for various LCD panels, PCB800099 has only a parallel port programmer with just a handful of binary images, hacked by the vendor to to support a few panels. Some images don’t work at all.
PCB800099's No signal OSD
PCB800099’s No signal OSD

But it’s not all bad. I’ve added support for PCB800099 to my ROVATool application, allowing a USB programmer (More here) which at least makes the programming of these boards a bit easier, but I don’t support editing.

From experience though, most of the problems with the supplied images is improperly hacked EDID blocks. It’s easy enough to find the EDID blocks (by hex searching for 00 FF FF FF FF FF FF 00) in the supplied .BIN files and fixing them up.

If you are considering buying one of these with the programmer, I would recommend buying the fantastic ROVA USB-TOOLS Programmer (For RM5251/RM5451) and using it with my software to program this board. This is a far easier and more reliable solution than using the Parallel programmer.

rtd2660ftdi

The panel I used here (LP171WP4) is unsupported by the supplied images, but by picking one with the same resolution and LVDS interface type and modifying the embedded EDID blocks I was able to get it working.

There are some pros to PCB800099 compared to RM5451. These are:

  • Two composite inputs. Useful for someone considering this for a surveillance or reversing camera project
  • It supports TTL panel output. There aren’t many boards that still do this
  • It’s got an HDMI input (If DVI connectors are too bulky for you, because the audio capabilities are of no use on this)
  • Like a TV, it comes with an infra-red remote control, if this kind of thing floats your boat
  • It is connector compatible with R.RM5451, including the LVDS interface and backlight. Caveat: backlight enable signal is only driven to +3.3v, which in rare cases could cause issues. The LP171WP4 I’ve got it connected to is a rare example of this, where I’ve had to buffer it because it requires a +5V backlight enable signal.

Overall the hardware solution of the RTD266x is a clear improvement over the RTD2120L + RTD2545 combo of the RM5451/RM5251, but unfortunately in this case, unless you’re happy with the insides of a cheap TV, the same cannot be said for its firmware.

Future firmware developments

From looking at the analytics of my blog, this page is five times more popular than that of the R.RMxxxx boards, I can only assume that this board is also five times more popular.

This is a shame, with the firmware situation being so poor for this platform. Unfortunately it looks unlikely that I’ll be able to expend any time to add support for it to my ROVAEdit tool as I did with the R.RM5xxx boards, which for now, notwithstanding the initial very small number of firmware images available, confines the use of PCB800099 to just a few panels.

There may be some hope. A Russian developer – Andrey Adamenko has been developing a new platform called “OpenRTD2662” which from looking at the pictures, looks promising.

Don’t let the name fool however, It is most certainly not an open source project. I exchanged some emails with Andrey a while back and he is not prepared to hand out any code.

I suspect that for the foreseeable future, OpenRTD2662 will remain confined to the Russian community. Let’s hope he changes his mind before the advent of eDP LCD panels renders the practise of HDMI to LVDS conversion obsolete.

Contacting me about this board

I get a lot of emails about this board to the effect of “I just bought one of these – how do I make it work with X?” If you’re thinking of sending one, please don’t. Trying to train up even a single newbie on this subject can burn hours of my day. I’m a busy person who works full time, I don’t have time for it. Sorry.

I am always keen to hear from people who have already been on the journey of learning about display controllers, and are at an advanced level of understanding, and perhaps even may have something to add to what I have here.

Do feel free to leave a comment on this post, I might be able to quickly answer it, or perhaps someone else may know.

41 thoughts on “PCB800099 – RTD2660/RTD2662 based LCD Controller Review”

  1. Hi,

    I just purchased some PCB800099 v0.9 board for interfacing N070ICG-LD1 boards to raspberry pi’s. Now the question is: How can I control brightness and turn on/off the display by the PI itself (Software)? This is essential for my project. Unfortunately, the manufacturer does have / give any information.

    Any help would be highly appreciated.

    With best regards & thank,
    Stefan

    1. Stefan,

      You can control the brightness and switch on/off the display by the 2 blue wire of 6-pin connector. You have to separate them, one is for on/off control (0V->off 3V3-> on) the other is for PWM input of brightness control. Pull this 2 blue wires from plug and connect directly to Pi’s IO pin that You can control.
      Hope it helps.
      Roger…

      1. Roger,
        Can you please clarify which pin is PWM input? On the 6-pin connector, there are two 12v and two GND pins on either side. And the middle two are On/Off (confirmed) and something labelled “NC”. Is this the PWM pin? Does it operate from 0 to 3.3V, or 0 to 5V? Thanks
        -Austin

        1. I have the same question regarding the 6 pin header for PWM brightness control, which pin exactly for the PWM?

          i understand as well that Pin3 is Enable pin, does that mean 4 as PWM? and what frequency is max brightness and what frequency is lowest?

          1. Last night I tried pushing a PWM signal to that pin with an Arduino and it had zero effect…
            I don’t doubt that there’s a way — I just have no idea what it is!

          2. Sorry to jump in unannounced, but I would love to know if people have solved the pinouts to get PWM brightness control working on this controller. Thanks!

    2. Hey there I am also interested in controlling the brightness via the PI, Was anyone successful in this? Do you mind sharing?

  2. Hey Matt,

    thanks for the write-up! I wonder if there’s a way to grab analogue audio from this board. Are there points I can solder speakers to in order to tap the already-converted HDMI audio? Maybe that’s a bit much to ask from this board…

    Kind regards
    Florian

    1. I’m fairly sure that the only audio output from RTD266x is SPDIF which is demuxed from the HDMI. It’s up to you to decode that analogue with additional silicon if needed.

  3. I’m looking to use one of these boards with a 7″ 1280×800 LCD screen, available as sets on ebay.

    My primary application would be FPV for multirotor UAV’s (“drones”), using 5.8GHZ video transmission going to the composite input, and maybe HDMI in the future.

    The problem is the no-video bluescreen. I have different monitors that vary in tolerance/response for turning blue with a weak signal, as well as recovering back to viable video.

    Obviously in FPV, snowy video is better than a blue screen. Is there any way to disable the bluescreen function and simply show the original “snowy” signal?

    Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

  4. Hi,
    I’ve got a PCB800099 V0.9 but I need to reconfigure EDID data.
    I’m looking for the ROVA USB-TOOLS Programmer but it seems not to be available any more… 🙁
    Do you know where I can get one ?
    Thanks in advance.
    Regards

      1. Also, try messaging njytouch. They surely will still have them even if there aren’t any listings on eBay at present.

  5. Hi, got my board with rtd2660 working, but the issue is: It show hdmi signal from windows 10 laptop, like INVERSE video.
    Colors are false , blue background show like yellow gold.
    Adjustment in the RGB settings do not correct this, neither color settings in the menu configuration, I left color temp in 6500.
    Any ideas how to solve this, I plan to connect to Beaglebone Black or Raspberry PI3b.
    Thanks for any reply.
    Dorisvaldo

  6. Was wondering something about this. If i supply it with 5v, it seems very picky on my power source, if i supply it with 5.1v it works fine, if it’s 4.99v it freaks out, which makes me wonder if the main regulator is set for 5 specifically. If so, would it be possible for me to completely bypass the regulator, or even remove it, since i’m using 5v anyways?

  7. Matt:

    Good day. I’m from Taiwan. May I ask you a question?

    Now, I found a problem of my VGA output.
    As we know, new LCD monitor are up to FHD.
    But old system was not support, it just has VGA out.
    And it is not standard resolution, for example
    640×500 H24.8KHz, V 47.9Hz
    640×400 H24.8KHz, V56Hz
    720×520 H31.4KHz, V57.9Hz

    My problem is can I use RTD2660 to convert these signal
    to New LCD monitor or LCD module?

    Can you give me some suggestion, as your experience.

    Much thanks,

    Simon. Lee

  8. Hi, any other board that supports hdmi audio in –> speaker out??
    This board doesn’t have internal speaker connector…

    cheers

  9. hi;
    im about to buy one of these controller board; im wondering can i update the firmware with a USB EEPROM Programmer like CH341A which is normally used for flashing computer BIOS!; you know just desolder the chip and erase it and write the new program and solder it again?? any input will be greatly appreciated

  10. I wanted to say thanks for posting this information !
    I wish I had come across your post earlier, when I was trying to decide from which seller to buy a controller. I was oscillating between njytouch and others. I finally decided to go with unique.buy*. To anyone interested in having their product delivered quickly avoid the ebay user unique.buy* (after one week and having paid for expedited shipping, I still don’t have a valid tracking number from this user, despite his very high ebay rating o.O). I will now proceed with ordering from njytouch, which you recommend here. I hope my experience will help others in making the right decision from the start.

  11. Hi,

    I would like to ask you 2 questions about RTD2660 board:
    1- Is it possible to reduce the startup time? AV comes after about 4 seconds by first start or by power on/off.
    2- How can we get the board in power saving mode?

    Any help would be highly appreciated.

    Best regards,
    Gregor

  12. I’m using one of these boards in an android integration project in my bmw. Is there any way through firmware modification to disable the composite input selection when switching sources? I use the VGA and hdmi and one of the composites is triggered by my reverse camera feed but I don’t require this as a selectable input.

  13. I have some experience with this board and have seen it used as a part of many LCD hobbyist kits with LVDS displays, often with a little breakout board that attaches to it.

    They often will fail after several hours of use and I figured out why: people are connecting their LCD backlights to the 3.3V logic supply and this is pulling far more current through the 3.3V domain than its built for. The inductor coil on the switching power supply reaches over 290ºF after about 45 minutes when using my HSD070PWW1 and then this causes downstream components to be damaged.

    I solved this my building my own separate switching power supply that can provide enough current and driving the backlight with that. Another solution I found that seems to work also (although haven’t tested it as much) is to replace the inductor coil (82uH) with one which can handle over 2A. I replaced it with AIUR-06-820K off digikey and this doesn’t get anywhere near as hot.

    Just thought I would share.

  14. Hi, I’m trying to modify the source code under the name Source1_081015_PCB800099. I have a problem that when VGA input is drawn only source of blue. Red and green not working. Does anyone have any advice on how to fix it. Somewhere there is an error in the source code, but I can not figure it out.

  15. I have bought on of these boards with RTD2660 to connect it to a 10inch 1024×600 LCD. The LCD model is B101AW03. But it does not work. I only get a black screen and then it fades and turn of. With an HDMI to my computer it is detected and I can select different resolutions but the LCD still does not work. I am wondering if there is a firmware that I need to flash for this to work with my LCD. Please help me because I can not seem to find any firmware files on the net,

  16. Hey all,

    Loved this useful page – much appreciated 😉

    I want to use the Board with an LED 10.1 Screen from China (Raspberry 10.1 Set HDMI)

    Is this 3.3V issue with the overload on the coil restricted to special Screens,
    Or where do I see the supply voltage of Backlight system?

    What’s your long- term experience with that Board in terms of durability ?

    Thanks

  17. hi everyone
    i been using this controller for sometime now, i recently got this same annoying problem mentioned here: https://www.cnet.com/forums/discussions/samsung-lcd-keeps-resetting-to-default-factoy-settings-410377/
    the fix in the link above didnt work, i guess those are only for samsung tvs, it must be i have to do something different for this board, i cant figure it out, i searched on the net but i found nothing, anyway it will be a great help if anyone have a clue how to get rid of this issue, thankyou

  18. Hi all,

    I’ve that famous PCB800099 v9, a 19″ (1600×900) and a 23″ (1920×1080) LCD panel. I want to drive one of these panels while the input is either VGA or HDMI. I’ve downloaded some source codes (and I’m sure that all of them have the same structure –you may noticed) and I’m playing with them.

    I modified the Panel_LVDS.h by adding a custom panel data for 1600×900, setting the active panel variable to that custom panel type and making an EDID for it. It works nice for HDMI. The problem is, when I change _NORMAL_SOURCE to _SOURCE_VGA, _VGA_SUPPORT to _ON and _VGA_EDID to _ON, it stops. I’ve tried everything on panel description struct and EDID, but no go. Actually, if I don’t connect the VGA socket the display is showing “VGA” first then “NO SIGNAL”; but when I connect the VGA socket, it stops. Shows nothing.

    I’ve downloaded some .bin files and one of them is says that it’s for 1280×800 LVDS displays. I’ve burnt that .bin file into the board and it works (but does not fit to the panel). So the problem does not come from VGA input circuitry. It’s something software-related issue.

    So what should I do to support VGA input?

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